Skipper’s Log 2006
Part 2
Lagos to Cartagena
25th April
Today was
Rie’s birthday, so naturally it was a nice, sunny day. At 0900 we heard a salvo
of maroon rockets go up to start the day’s festivities. It was also a public
holiday here, to mark the anniversary of Portugal’s end to Communism and the
birth of its democracy. We kept ourselves busy most of the day, getting the
boat ready as we plan to leave tomorrow.
The steel
work was completed yesterday and we have wired in the solar panel and the wind
generator. The GPS and NAVTEX antennas have also been relocated onto the arch.
Wayne,
from “Hitropia” has reinstalled our old version of Max Sea
on the computer, as the new version was unstable. We have bought a second hand
inflatable dinghy with an inflatable keel and solid transom from another boat.
Tord and
Pia from SY Ayla came back from their break in Sweden today so we invited them to
join us for Rie’s birthday dinner at a local restaurant. Afterwards, we shared
a bottle of wine on their boat.
26th
April
Having got
the last few jobs done, and last minute shopping, we checked out of Lagos
Marina and finally left at 1320. We were bound for Cadiz. There was not much wind forecast, so
we expected o motor but after an hour or so the visibility started to
deteriorate. Four hors later the fog was very thick, and we could only see with
the Radar! We decided we could not carry on overnight in these conditions so we
made for Vilamoura – an hour’s sail away. We entered between the moles with GPS
and Radar, then saw the beacons above! The next task was to find the reception
pontoon – we could only see 10 to 15 metres ahead! We moored up at 1830 and
spent the night on the reception pontoon.
27th
April
We got up
to another foggy day, which only started to clear late morning. We decided to
stay another night in case the fog came down again in the afternoon. We moved
over to a pontoon on the eastern side f the marina, which was much pleasanter.
Over on the other side of the pontoon from us was another Rival32 “Sans Souci”.
We invited the owners over for a drink in the evening and they told us they
kept their boat in Vilamoura but lived in Edinburgh.
They can get direct flights from Edinburgh
to Faro. John was a retired diplomat, and they had lived in many parts of the
world.
28th
April
We left
Vilamoua mid morning and sailed t the anchorage inside Isla Culatra. We had a
nice sunny day, but very little wind. We had a relaxing afternoon at anchor.
29th
April
A longer
day today, having left Faro entrance at 9.45
am and arrived in Isla Canela (Spain) at 3.45pm. Another sunny day with a slight wind on
the nose, so motoring again. We tried out the new fishing rod and the tackle
Richard had made up for us, but not a bite. Isla Canela was a pleasant enough
marina and not too expensive at 8.10 € but it was part of a large condominium
of holiday apartments and so very geared for the tourist. The original village
was over on the other side from the marina where there were many trawlers laid
up in a line along the front. The village looked a bit down at heel.
30th
April
We left
Isla Canela just after 10 a.m.
(having remembered to put the clocks forward an hour as we were now in Spain).
Again very little wind and the sea was flat calm with sunshine. 1130 found Rie
reading her book and me writing my diary and keeping an occasional lookout for
fishing nets and boats. When we left Isla Canela, we passed many fishing nets –
the trawlermen must have taken to inshore fishing instead! Further out we could
see some tuna nets, but the area of nets was far more extensive than shown on
our charts.
As the day
progressed, the weather became clearer and we had an uneventful passage to
Marina Mazagon. I think we were the only non Spanish boat in this large harbour
and the bars were very busy on this holiday weekend. The marina staff were very
helpful and spoke English. However, the toilets and showers were nothing to
write home about
1st
May
We left
Mazagon just after 9 a.m.
and set course for Cadiz.
We had received an SMS from Tord and Pia who said they were in Sanci Petri!
They had passed us!
The wind
was in the SE again at about8 kn all day so we motorsailed again most of he
way, but we managed to sail as we approached the Bay of Cadiz.
We were accompanied by two Spanish boats most of the way, but they headed for Rota. Rota is recommended as a nicer harbour, but we
wanted to see Cadiz.
When we arrived at Puerto de Americas,
we found all the pontoons had been re-arranged. So we found an empty berth and
went in search for somewhere to check in. The office had closed at 1730- an
hour before we arrived, so I found a night watchman who checked me in and
issued a gate pass. I think we are the only visitor here! It had been a tiring
day, so after a meal and an episode of “Ørnen”, we turned in.
2nd
May
We had a
lie in this morning then, I went up to the office to pay my dues. The Port
Captain was very friendly and we discussed the weather window for continuing to
Gibraltar. He went on the internet and we
could see there was a strong wind forecast for tomorrow and possibly Thursday.
So we have to wait here until Friday.
We walked
into the town, along the sea wall. We were pleasantly surprised by this old
fortified city. It was very pleasant to walk around in, with many narrow
streets and parks. We had lunch at a bar- restaurant overlooking the cathedral
square – very pleasant. We then walked down to the university area where we saw
two giant rubber plant TREES!
From here
we could also look out the fort on the end of a high causeway. We walked back
through the narrow streets to the cathedral, stopping at a bar with internet on
the way. We knew the cathedral was open for visitors from 4.30 p.m. The cathedral was worth seeing, it
had high vaulted ceilings, one of the domes had golden tiles on the outside.
The crypt was large and interesting, it contained the grave of Manuel de Failla.
The stonework in the crypt was impressive and the acoustics were fantastic.
Afterwards we shopped at a large supermarket and took a taxi back to the boat.
On the way, we passed a park with beautifully clipped trees. We may walk back
there tomorrow for a better look.
3rd
May
We walked
back to the Genoese park where here was a wide variety of palms and succulents.
We looked up the weather again at an internet café and I hope we can move on tomorrow.
4th
May
We decided
to move on today, otherwise we risk meeting an east wind in the Gibraltar Strait. About noon, we motorsailed out into the Bay of Cadiz
and on turning south e had a fine sailing wind on the beam. We took the inshore
route past Sancti Petri and Cabo Roche. We had an SMS from Bjorn that he was
sailing o Chipiona today. To the south of Cabo Roche there is an area marked on
the chart where tuna nets are laid, but we planned to be well inshore of them.
Suddenly, we came upon a net that continued close in to the shore, such that we
had to head out to sea for some 5nm into he wind and waves. Having gone so far
out we continued offshore round Cape Trafalgar.
By now the wind was astern and plenty of it at 20 knots and a steep following
sea. We arrived in Barbate at 7.30
p.m. just as the office was closing.
Later that
evening, Tord and Pia came by. They told us they were leaving very early next
morning, but we decided to wait until the afternoon to catch the tide from
Tarifa eastwards.
5th
May
We left
Barbate at 3pm together
with an English boat called Capella. At first we sailed well, but the wind
dropped as we approached Tarifa, so we helped her along with the engine in
order to make Gibraltar in daylight. Long
before rounding Tarifa, we could see the mountains of Morocco. As we neared Gibraltar they came even closer.
Gibraltar
We arrived
at Marina Bay,
Gibraltar at 8.40 pm . The current in the strait had given us a good
push and we had been doing 8.5 knots for the last 2½ hours.
Tord and
Pia were already there of course, but extremely tired after their early morning
start. They had tried to catch a current down to Tarifa but never felt any
effect from it. It seems we had come through quicker by an hour. However, they
had seen many dolphins and we didn’t see any.
6th
May
After a
late morning, we went to explore the town – it is very English of course with a
faint hint of Spanish. We found the big Safeways supermarket and were amazed at
the selection of goods on the shelves, including fresh fruit and vegetables.
The price of normal items was high here except for things that are normally
highly taxed, such as alcohol and tobacco products – Gibraltar
is a tax free zone.
We were
invited to dine aboard SY Ayla and had a very pleasant evening.
7th
May
Bjorn
arrived today on SY Josephine. A cruise ship came in today too and although it
was Sunday, many shops remained open. We made enquiries about visiting the
caves and tunnels. We decided to take the taxi tour, shared with Bjorn
tomorrow. In the evening we joined Bjorn, Tord and Pia for fish and chips at a
harbour side restaurant.
8th
May
Today was
to be the tour of the rock, but first a walk round to Shephard’s chandlery for
a few things. We met Bjorn at 2pm
and found one of the taxi tour minibuses. We drove out to Europa Point and aw
over to Africa., then we entered St Michael’s Cave. This was really something
special – a huge cavern in the limestone with intricate stalactites and
stalagmites. There was even room for a concert hall inside it! This must be the
most amazing cave I have seen.
We drove
onward and upwards to the high rock where the apes were. There were fine views
in all directions and we could clearly see the Atlas
mountains. The apes climbed in the taxi window and on people’s
shoulders. Afterwards we drove down to the Siege Tunnels. These are an amazing
feat of engineering, dug out by hand in the 1700’s. By firing cannon through
holes in the rock face, they were able to defeat the Spanish army below and end
the siege. These were years of great hardship for the Gibraltarians who were
completely cut off. They were relieved only three times in that period by the
English navy.
Marina Bay
There is the ruin of a large Moorish fort on Gibraltar, the name comes from the Arab Gib Al Tarik (the castle of Al Tarik). He was the Moor that established the first town here on the rock. There is also a Spanish built curtain wall from the old town all the way to the top, with steps all along it.
9th
May
We heard
from Bjorn that there would be a Levanter blowing in the Strait the next six
days – a strong east wind. We didn’t want to be trapped here for another week –
so we decided to leave today. But first we had to stock up at Safeways, so we
took our shopper over there and bought all those English things that are hard
to get. We paid our bills and filled up with diesel at the BP berth (70 litres
for £34.50), then we set off own the bay. It was blowing 20 knots from the NE
and rather choppy.
After an
uncomfortable 3½ hours of bashing into the waves, we came to the marina at
Sotogande. The whole boat and ourselves were covered in salt spray. Here we
encountered our first “Mediterranean mooring”,
that is where we go in bows first to a concrete pontoon and pick up a stern
line, (covered in mud and molluscs). This marina is bordered with luxury
apartments and caters just for visitors – the place has no soul. It does
however have a good boatyard if needed.
10th
May
It was my
birthday and we decided to stay in harbour for the day. I received some sms
greetings from Denmark.
When I came back from the showers, Rie had hoisted a large Welsh flag and the
cabin was also decorated with the small ones we were given in Alvor.
The job of
the day was to install a new tap for the toilet sink and plumb it into the
existing pressurised water system in the galley. That took a good few hours of
work, as I had to run piping into the galley and under the floors. It rained on
and off all day and the wind continued to howl out at sea. In the evening, we
went to a nearby restaurant where I had roasted leg of lamb.
11th
May
It was
still overcast and windy, with 15 knots from the east, but we decided to push
on to Estepona – just 10 nm away. The waves were not so high today, but we
still got covered in spray in the 2½ hours it took to get there. Estepona is a
well established marina, the marina office is in a blue octagonal building
which is described in the pilot book as “ a layered wedding cake with icing” I
had hoped to get on the internet here to check my e-mails, but could not pick
up a usable signal.
12th
May
The morning
was fine and sunny with little wind. We decided to stay here the day as we
needed to do some shopping and wash clothes. In the afternoon, we walked into
the town, and on the way found an English shop selling groceries and ran a book
swop. We bought novels at 1€ each. We carried on further, past the bullring and
found a Chinese shop that was fantastic value. We bought a bucket, a tortilla
pan and cleaning materials, plus kitchen rolls etc.
We decide
to eat out and found a nice Chinese restaurant nearby, the food tasted really
fresh.
13h May
Not much
wind today, and what there was came from the east again. We motored to
Benalmedina marina, which was very touristy. At first they told us there was no
place for us because of the international regatta being hosted. While we
considered where we might anchor, they relented and said they could fit us in
after all. They found us a place right in the innermost corner of the marina in
front of a row of restaurants.
We had a
sleepless night due to the drunken bawling yobs around the marina – it was very
noisy, right up until about 7 am.
14th
May
It w very
overcast today, but we set off under sail to Puerto Caleta de Velez. We had a
hard beat most of the way, but as we neared Punto de Torres, with he huge figure
of a bull on the hill top, the wind died but the swell increased to an
uncomfortable level. As we motored towards the harbour, we rolled on or beam
ands and things started flying around below! Once in the harbour, it was flat
calm though and we rafted alongside “Capella” on the waiting berth.
On finding
the harbour office, it turned out the harbour was pretty full, but they found
us a berth. Apparently “Capella” had been there for 5 days with seawater in her
engine – it had only done 27 hours from new! We had a meal at the harbour
taverna – a lovely piece of steamed cod which tasted really good.
15th
May
When I went
up to the office, I was told we would have to move o a new berth as the owner
was launching his boat later in the day. While making the toast, there was a
knock on the hull and there were 4 Guarda Civil (police) who said thy wanted to
check our papers. They checked boat documents, insurance, certificate of
competence, passports and were told there were no infringements. However, I was
very strongly advised to put my registration numbers on the bow – they said it
was mandatory in Spain.
So after breakfast I found a chandler and bought some stick on letters and
numbers and put them on.
We changed
berth around 4 pm, I have
to pay 1€ more as it is a 12m berth, but at 9€ a night I didn’t complain. It is
nice and peaceful in this small fishing harbour so we have decided to take a
break and catch up on our lost sleep. After moving to the new berth, I went in
search of gas, but had to walk a couple of miles to the neighbouring town of Torres del
Mar for it. It was a pleasant walk along the beach, so it was not so bad. Torres
is part of the Malaga Council area.
Capella has
had her engine fixed – the firm that fitted it in Cadiz sent a man over and fitted an
anti-siphon device in the water intake. So a very relieved skipper is planning
on leaving tomorrow. This was his 3rd engine and the other two had
also been damaged by water n the cylinders – a very expensive lesson!
17th
May
We left
Caleta de Velez mid morning. It was a nice sunny morning with a light ENE
breeze – motoring again. The passage was uneventful and we arrived in Motril at
3.30 pm. We had expected
to anchor here, but the marina has been extended over the anchorage. We found
an empty berth and the marinero came down to help with the ropes. Motril is
really an industrial harbour with a corer for the Real Club Nautico. There were
many dead fish in the harbour (sardines) probably spilled from the fishing
boats being unloaded. I had a shock when I found they wanted 23€ a night – the
pilot calls this a cheap harbour!
The German
yacht “Rajah” was on our pontoon and we met a Swedish couple – Kjel and Lola on
the yacht “The Spice”. We were invited aboard “The Spice” and made friends with
Kjel and Lola. They also knew Tord and Pia and Bjorn. They came from Gothenburg
and also knew the yacht “Lindisfarne” who we knew in Lagos. We also went aboard “Rajah” for a
drink on the way back.
18th
May
We could
see the harbour entrance from or berth and it was obviously foggy outside. We
waited until 10.30 am for
it to clear a bit and then got under way. Soon after leaving harbour, we put up
all sails and made use of the following wind. Apart from half an hour in the
early afternoon, we had the wind with us all the way to Almerimar. Rajah
arrived soon after us and later “The Spice” came in. We found a very cheap
Chinese restaurant for our evening meal.
19th
May
We decded
to stay in harbour today, there is a good supermarket here for stocking up. We
invited kjel and Lola over for drinks in the afternoon. We talked and talked,
these are more of our kind of sailors. Rajah had left early in the morning.
20th
May
Today was
also a leasurely day, we left harbour at 10
am and arrived in Aguadulce at 2 pm. Not much wind again today, so motorsailing with the
main up again. In Aguadulce, we moored bows to behind the breakwater wall . Our
neighbour boat was “Ruby Tuesday”, a steel boat which may have been Dutch built.
She was based here and the owners were in the process of renovating a run down
house inland.
The
backdrop to the marina was a high rocky cliff with two roads going through it.
It was desperately hot in the afternoon. Kjel
and Lola came round in the evening to say hello, and we broke open the bottle
of rum we had bought in Gib. Three hours later, Lola noticed the time and they
had to hurry back to their boat for their evening meal (10 pm). We settled down for a peaceful night.
21st
May
We had set today aside for visiting the
Alcazaba in Almeria.
We took the bus from the marina and a taxi from the Bus station in Almeria up to the Moorish
fort high above the town. This was the largest Moorish fortification in Spain
and was very impressive. The fort is divided into three sections – the first
which had originally held dwellings, was landscaped in Moorish style with water
flowing in channels in the middle of the pathways. There were fine views over
the surrounding countryside and out to sea. The second section was still under
archaeological excavation and contained the Kalifa’s palace. The bath house was
nice and cool.
To the
north lied the later fortifications built by the Christian conquerors designed
to accommodate cannon. The towers and walls were still impressive though.
As we came
down from the fort, a taxi dropped some passengers so we hailed it for the
drive back to the city centre. On the way down through the narrow roads, the
way was blocked by a procession and the taxi had to back up a long ay before he
could turn around. He dropped us ff in the main street and we went for a light
snack and out f the burning heat. When we came out again, we could hear a band
playing – so we followed the sound and came upon the procession. They were
carrying a huge figure of “The Virgin of the Sea” on a heavy silver bearer. It
took over 20 men to carry it and every so often the leader would hit a bell
with a hammer and they took a rest. The procession visited the various churches
in the city and back to the host church.
The streets
were full to choking with incense, but the whole proceeding was very moving.
We started
our way back to the bus stop and stopped for a tea and a coffee on the way.
Then came across a horse fair! We went in for a look around. There was a good
display of horses and foals from various studs and riding establishments with
the riders dressed in traditional Spanish riding clothes – very smart.
Unfortunately we had filled the camera with pictures so no horsy pictures.
We
eventually caught our bus back to Aguadulce – happy but tired after a wonderful
day out. In the evening, we were invited aboard “The Spice” again and the time
just vanished – we suddenly realised it was 1.25 am!
22nd
May
We had
decided to sail overnight the 100nm to Cartagena
and now regretted having stayed up so late last night – we are old enough to
know better! We finally set off about mid day and had a wonderful fast sail to
Cabo de Gata. After rounding it, we went into the sheltered anchorage of Pto.
Genoves, where we took down sails and anchored. We had a couple of hours’ sleep
and a hot meal, and then set off again at 8
pm. We now had a following
wind, so we set up the twin foresails, but after about an hour the wind dropped
to nothing. There was a fantastic colour in the west, over the mountains around
9 pm and we settled into
our night sail.
I kept watch until midnight and then handed over to Rie for the next
three hours. The night was very dark and overcast, but with very good
visibility. I saw one fishing boat on m first watch, otherwise nothing but
phosphorescence in our wake.
23rd
May
Rie went to
bed at about 3.3 am and I
took the watch the rest of the way. At 7.30
am, I saw a weak echo on the radar but could not see a boat. On
scanning with binoculars, I saw a submarine at periscope depth, only the
aerials and periscope above the surface! I had seen a Navtex message that there
was a submarine in the area. It stayed within a small area and a surface naval
vessel cruised around. It took a long
time to reach Cartagena
as an east wind came up and a nasty chop with it.
Eventually
we arrived at 11 am and
berthed alongside on the waiting quay. This needed a fender boar and all our
fenders. As we were only staying 2 nights, they left us on the quay. After
“brunch” we crawled in our bunks for a couple of hours’ sleep before going out
to explore. We found a barber, so I had a short haircut – he wouldn’t do Rie!
We saw a young lad carrying bread in Lidl bags, so we asked him the way to the
supermarket. We shopped and took a taxi back to the boat. We saw “Rajah”
arrive, but they got a berth as there was no room left on the quay, so we
didn’t make contact.
24th
May
We were
still recovering from the overnight sail so took it easy today. A Spanish
frigate came in during the night and moored just 50 metres behind us n the
quay.
During the morning there was much parading in
front of the ship and the crew manned the decks. We have washed the salt off
the decks and put our best flag out. In the afternoon, we walked into the town
nearby, there are some very nice public buildings here. On the way from the
harbour, there were some delightful bronze figures of sailors returning on
leave.
The yacht
“Rajah” left this morning, but came back a few hours later with a swaying mast!
One of the cap shroud rigging screws had parted. I was later shown how the end
had just pulled out of the bottle. Whoever installed it had cross threaded the
screw and forced it in. I went up to the harbour office meaning to tell them we
leaving in the morning, but having seen the weather forecast, changed my mind.
An area of high winds is expected to come through sea areas Palos and Alborran
and I don’t fancy ploughing into f6 winds and rough seas. The wind should drop
the next day.
25th
May
Heard
“reveille” this morning and aw the flags go up on the frigate behind us. They
also put up bunting overall, we then realised that yesterday was just a
rehearsal. As we ate a late breakfast, we could hear a crowd gathering, and I
went up to have a look
at 11 am to find out what
was happening. By then the sailors in their white uniforms were marching onto
the square and the ship’s company were manning the decks again. It looked as if
someone important was expected.
Rie joined
me half an hour later and we learned that Queen Sophia was expected! We could
sense the expectant atmosphere. At 12 am the Queen arrived and the
national anthem was sung.
She
inspected the sailors on parade and alighted a podium. She was dressed in a
long black dress and wore the mantilla on her head. A bishop blessed a new
standard and it was passed to the Queen, who presented it to the Captain General.
The Queen and senior officers then moved to another podium and the new standard
was paraded and marched off to barracks. The Queen left after another “VIVA”
and much handclapping.
We returned
to our ship for some lunch and then took our bag of washing to the marina
washing machine! We went over to “Rajah” while waiting for the washing to
finish and checked the forecast on the way. No sailing tomorrow as ENE f 6-7
expected for Palos with “rough” seas – not our cup of tea! In the evening,
Klaus, Anne-Marie and their crew Kurt came over for a glass of wine.
We now
await better weather for continuing to Alicante,
where we shall meet Poul who will sail to the Balearics with us.
