Skipper's log 15th June 1997 - Biscay crossing

    1997 CRUISE TO SPAIN AND THE AZORES

Biscay

2 June	1425	Left Sutton Harbour in rain and little wind, visibility about 3 miles. Motored down Plymouth Sound. Tried sailing for a while but gave up as speed was only a half knot!
	1630	Still motoring, visibility improving to the southwest, and the rain has stopped. The Eddystone light is clearly visible at 4.75 nm, and a Leander Class frigate is manouvering within 1-2 nm of us. The barometer remains steady at 1018mB. While in Plymouth, there was a gale warning and it did blow F8 yesterday. We tried out the storm sails this morning while still in harbour and decided the 30cm strop would do for the storm jib and the working jib. I had an extra inner forestay fitted during the refit at Halls, so we can sail with two foresails.
	1655	BBC forecast: Low NW France 1012mb,1015mb in Sole. Area forecast: Plymouth NE F5 or 6 becoming variable, thundery showers, god vis. Biscay: variable 3-4, showers, moderate vis. Finisterre: variable 3-4 becoming NE  5 in NW.
	2000	The two Daves on watch. It started raining heavily soon after, with brilliant lightning flashes. We’re going along rather well. Andy took over the watch.
	2300	Andy took over the watch.
3 June	0200	Skipper took over the watch. Wind has picked up a little, so put a reef in the main. The wind is almost astern, so preventers in use.
	0500	Andy came up, and David followed soon after. The wind had eased, so the reefs were taken out and I went down to get some sleep.
	0700	Latest forecast: Plymouth NE 4 or 5, occasionally 6 at first becoming variable 3, thundery showers, moderate or good visibility. N Finisterre: variable, becoming SE 3 or 4, showers, good becoming moderate in fog patches.
	0930	The sun is shining and we’re going along at about 4.5 kn in an E F4. GPS position is: 49 22.21N  05 37.83W. We’ve covered 95 nm since 0200 yesterday and we are within 10 miles of our turning point off Ushant TSS. Claire’s up on deck, Andy’s in his day clothes, Dave E is sunbathing, and Dave M is frying bacon and eggs.
	1400	Just 24 hours under way now and we’ve covered 110nm. The weather is good, sunny with  E F4 wind, and we’re rolling along. Dave M has just cooked a lovely tortilla and made a salad
	1600	Our intended course of 204 is too close to the wind to sail now the wind has gone to the south. We’re steering 230 as that is the best we can do. Dave E is fishing with the trolling gear we bought in Plymouth.
	2040	Just finished a meal of  steak and ale pie, baked potatoes, carrots & peas with some Australian wine! Dave E has now caught 3 reasonably sized mackerel (we threw the first back as we thought it was too small – but now wish we hadn’t). Claire is still not well and not eating – giving some concern. Andy took over the watch at 2100. He was relieved at midnight by Dave E and myself. Had to run the engine for half an hour to recharge the batteries. The log had dropped out, and the lights gone dim.
4 June	0330	.Dave Miles came up, but I stayed on with him. Uneventful night, plodding along at 5-6kn in the wanted direction. We’re only 50nm or so from the edge of the continental shelf. Had some discussion what to do about Claire. If she doesn’t get over her seasickness, one option is to send her back to the UK either by air with Andy, or by sea with Dave E to Plymouth. We’ll ned to try and get some replacement, if only as far as Punta Delgado.
	0830	Made contact with the Ham MM radio net and advised of severe weather approaching the Portuguese coast. Were given frequency of the Portishead N Atlantic forecast at 1100Z on 13.146MHz and17.245MHz at 0900Z.
	1230	NAVTEX forecast received giving near galein Galicia within 24hrs, this matches the Ham forecast received this morning. No mention of gales from the BBC though. We decided to divert to Camaret, near Brest for shelter. Claire’s condition is still poor, so we will have to put her ashore there. She can then travel back to Plymouth with Andy on the Roskoff ferry.
	1730	Our speed had dropped right down in the dwindling wind, so furled genoa and started motoring. The barometer is dropping steadily and now reads 1011mb. Andy has just gutted the 6 mackerel that Dave E caught this afternoon – we’re having them for supper. Still heading for Camaret. BBC forecast received that confirms warning of gales in Trafalgar and S F5-6 in Finisterre. Topped up the fuel tank.
	1900	Position is 48 06.80N 06 27.68W by GPS and we’re still motoring.
	2000	We’ve just had a superb meal of baked mackerel. I’m on watch till midnight, and it’s still raining.
5 June	0300	The two Daves took over the watch it became rather busy south of the Ushant TSS
	0600	Andy took over the watch, and by then it was getting rather murky. As we approached land, the Radar was on continuously as we negotiated the outlying rocks. We only had a small scale chart of the area plus the McMillan’s chartlets, but with Radar and GPS we made it in to Camaret. Lesson learnt! Have to buy larger scale charts before we negotiate our way out.
	1800	Customs have been on board, they asked loads of questions but no hassle really. Have paid my harbour dues for three nights, we’re not likely to leave here before Sunday morning since the deep low coming towards Biscay will not clear before then. Dave M made a beef casserole – superb! He certainly deserved his good reputation as a cook.
6 June	0930	Sailed over to Brest to take Andy and Claire to meet the train. Blew F5 on the way. Bought some French charts in Brest. Found it a very commercial place with the marina a long way out of town. Sailed back to Camaret. Had gusts of 35knon the beam at times,but mainly 25kn – an exciting sail back to our sheltered berth. In the evening we went out for a meal in Camaret, it was delicious seafood and very good value.
7 June		Bright sunny day but wind up to F6. Drew some money out of the bank with my Visa card as they would not change an Eurocheque. Bought some gas and did some general shopping. We met the couple from” Pushpa” and invited them on board for an evening meal. Another beef casserole is now cooking. NAVTEX forecast is dor more rough weather in Biscay – the French NAVTEX station gives a comprehensive forecast. John and Maggie Hines from Lymington were very entertaining. They pointed out that some of the pictures in the “ Atlantic Spain and Portugal” pilot are credited to them. They knew the author well. Dave’s meal was superb again and the fresh fruit salad and the wine was delicious. I was asked if we always ate so well on board, I replied that it was only when Dave Miles was on board.
8 June		The weather forecast is confusing. NAVTEX and UK shipping forecast are reasonable but there is a low over the Azores and the French metfax suggests that F11 winds can be expected in W Biscay on 11 June, so we’re unsure what to do. Had a salad lunch and washed some clothes on board. Local conditions are fine and good drying weather. Have decided to move around to Benodet as we’re getting bored here, so worked up a passage plan and entered all the waypoints in the GPS.
9 June		Slack water at Raz de Sein is at HW Brest, (2040). Plan to leave Camaret at 1740. Total distance is 58nm , so duration is 14.5hrs, based on an average speed of 4kn. ETA Benodet 0700 on 10 June. The three day forecast is for high winds in S Biscay, so we can’t make the crossing yet. We propose to do an overnight passage to Benodet, to be clear of the Raz de Sein and have a new harbour to explore. Audierne was ruled out because the depth would be marginal in the approach at our ETA and the entrance is very narrow for a night entry.
	1505	Departed Camaret and made for a waypoint n the sightline for Chaneldu Petit Leac’h. No wind, so motoring.
	1615	We’re midway between the two cardinal buoys in Chenal de Petit Leac’h. continuing on 229 M towards Basse de Luis and have reduced speed to avoid arriving too early for the tide.
	1725	At Basse de Luis intersection of transits, new course 191 M called for.
	1930	Rounded Point du Raz, now on a heading of 150 M to the next waypoint. One reef in the main and three rolls in the genoa, and we’re doing 7.5kn.
	2340	Rounding Penmarch on a course of 140 M. Called up Penmarch Radio in response to a call to give identification and position. Gave our position as 47 44.70N and 04 25.76 W. It turned out that we were not the vessel they were trying to identify.
10 June	0310	Started the engine as tacking into the tide was getting us nowhere.
	0600	Near Loctudy approach. Turned off the engine for the approach to Benodet. Wind now NE F4 and the barometer is dropping.
	0700	Moored up to the visitors pontoon at Benodet Marina. It must be high water as there is absolutely no current. Benodet is known for the current sweeping through the marina. It has been a very tiring voyage from Camaret. We had a walk around the town and studied the weather forecasts.Had a meal in the only place we found open.
11 June	0630	We departed Benodet at 0555, it is sunny but with clouds rolling in. Turned off the engine before reaching the channel buoys. The wind is SE F3 and sailing along nicely at 6kn with full main and genoa. Another boat “ Main Chance “ left two hours earlier than us, also bound for La Coruna.
	1120	Near the edge of the 100m shelf, deeper water gives noticeably better motion. Dave has just served up an excellent omelette, half of it flew off the stove though.
	1505	Going is rough in SW  F5 and we have reefs in main and genoa. On approaching the shipping route, we turned south, and made better progress as the waves no longer threw us into a luffing position.
	1900	Made contact with the radio net, G0IAD was standing in as controller and was a very strong signal on 14.303MHz.
12 June	0000	Came on watch at midnight, taking over from Dave M. We’re still heading south. There are many Purse Seine fishing boats about, with flashing orange lights as they shoot nets. Handed over to Dave E at 0300 and turned in.
	0800	Tuned in to the radio net, but could not hear G4DRN in England. Heard stations in the Balearics, Malta and Sardinia. Also heard a station bound for the Azores, on lat.40 N with about 200nm to go and was experiencing light airs.
	0830	Changed to port tack and so able to steer 260 M which is a better course. Shook out the reefs and trimmed the sails, we’re doing only 4.5kn and we’re hard on the wind.
	1100	Dave E on watch and I came down for a rest. We keep loose watches by day and 3 hour watches at night.
	2100	It’s been a better day today, very little rain and some sunshine. The wind picked up to F5 so we put a reef in the main, that’s when we discovered that that the mast winch handle had gone over the side. Fortunately, we had a spare, but it’s not as good as the other because it doesn’t stay in the winch. A RoRo ferry came up on us, I think he came over for a closer look as he later went back to his original course. Came on watch, nothing in sight. Have the Radar in watchman mode, covering the forward sector in guard mode.  Position is now45 56.82’N 05 00.39’W by GPS. We’re steering a course of 190 M, but our COG is 180 M. Failed to make contact with the Ham net tonight, conditions not as good as last night. All systems are working well, the wind steering working very well in the swell and cross waves. No NAVTEX forecast received today, though French Nav warnings received. We might pick up the La Coruna station tomorrow.
	2325	Wind has dropped to 6kn and speed to 1.9kn, started the engine and running on 1000 rpm with sails up. A large merchant vessel passed astern.
13 June		Ran under power all night, but the wind picked up to F3 from he SE around 0600. Engine turned off and making a good 6kn towards La Coruna.
	0630	Sighted our first dolphin, there were at least 10 of them around the boat for about half an hour and then disappeared. Dave E stayed up to watch them. Our position is now 45 22’N and 05 43’ W
	0930	Made brief contact with G4FRN to report position and conditions, reception was poor though.
	1830	It has been a rough old day, the wind built up to F6, then suddenly went round to the NW while I was tying in a reef in the main. Later it went round further, such that we can lay 240 M without being close hauled – a lot more comfortable and we’re doing 6kn. The dolphin showed up again in the afternoon. No contact with the radio net tonight and Radio 4 long wave reception also poor. Ship’s batteries are fully charged.
14 June		Steady wind from the west allowed us to make good progress overnight at a steady 5kn. It remained dry and Dave M amused himself identifying the stars with the aid of his stargazer chart.
	0530	The wind has dropped to 5kn and our speed to about 2kn. Started the engine and topped up the fuel tank. We now have only the one 20ltr jerry can in reserve, must buy more fuel when we get to Spain. We’re doing 6.4kn under power.
	0700	Sighted land to the south, Pt Estaca de Bares. A bright sunny morning with a gentle breeze.
	0815	Made contact with G4FRN on the radio net, his signals were strong today.
	1004	Took a sunsight and worked out a position line. Both Dave M and I both completed the Ocean Yachtmaster course last winter, so we’re putting in some sextant practice. Our main position source is still GPS though.
	1610	We’re approaching Cabo Prior and have motor sailed most of the afternoon. Used GPS to put us on the sight line for La Coruna on 188 M. We didn’t see the transit towers until quite close in, after clearing the banks.
	2100	Moored bows to in the Real Club Nautico marina in La Coruna. Manuelo the port captain was very helpful and friendly, he spoke no English though.
	2300	Went out on the town, visiting various tapas bars and sampled pulpo, almejas etc. with excellent local wines. Dave M knew his way around the town and knew what to order.