Friday, June 22, 2012

Björkö 22nd June

We left Donsö on the 20th and sailed round the eastern side of the island and around the northern end to Styrsö. It was a nice sunny day, with a good breeze from the northwest. When we arrived in Tången harbour, the wind came directly through the sound, and the berths outside the floating pontoon looked very uncomfortable. We decided to continue to Sandvikhamn, which is just around the corner, and try our luck there. We were very glad we did, as Sandvikhamn offered perfect shelter. We moored alongside the quay which had a guest sign on.

Our reason for coming to Styrsö was that we knew some people who live here. We had met Maria and Joel at Laust's birthday party a few years ago. They have spent many years as archaeologists on Greenland, but have now retired and built a house in Sandvik. They came down for a coffe on board, and afterwards we walked together up to their house built on the cliffs, overlooking the harbour. On the way, Maria showed us her little clinker built rowing boat, which they use for visiting friends on neighbouring islands.





Their house was built almost entirely of timber, as is the practise here. Their terrace was built on their boundary line above the house - this gave fantastic views out to sea, including the island of Vinga, which is the westernmost part of Sweden. Vinga lighthouse was the childhood home of Evert Taube, a famous musician.
                                                  Maria and Joel's house
                                         


                                            Enjoying a drink on their terrace.

                                                                           

                                           The view down to Sandvik harbour.



Marie had offered the use of her washing machine, so we took a bag of dirty washing with us! It wasn't finished when we left, so she brought the dried and folded washing down to us next morning. It was a beautiful sunny morning - the warmest yet this year . After Rie had been for a swim from the nearby bathing place ( still cold water ), we set sail for Björkö - a larger island further north. We negotiated the narrow sound between Stora Kånsö and Vargö and then up Dana Fjord , passing Öckerö and north to Björkö.
The distance was only about 9 nm and the wind was more or less on the nose. So we motored slowly, trailing our fishing line, but we didn't catch our supper this time.


Björkö fishing harbour sits in a corner, protected by a rocky islet. Visitors are encouraged to moor to a wooden stageing, with a fixed pick up anchor rope astern. We had seen this form of mooring in Spain, so we knew the drill! Our berth was a little "dangerous" in that it was just behind an ice cream booth. The young girl from the booth came over with an ice cream tub that was almost empty, for us to scrape clean. This we duly did!






                                          Björkö fishing harbour, with ice factory at left

Björkö has a chandler, an ICA supermarket and about three eating places. What it does lack is a cash machine, and this is a common problem hereabouts. We have been told there is a cash machine in Öckerö and in Marstrand. Fortunately we can get by with our Danish bank card.

Today is celebrated as midsummer's day in Sweden, and the harbour is pretty full with visiting boats. In the morning we went for an hour's walk along the cliffs, there was heavy traffic of yachts sailing north.

We had intended going up to the local football ground to see the raising of the traditional midsummer pole, decorated with leaf garlands and flowers. However, in the afternoon, the heavens opened so we stayed on board and played Yatzi ( a game played with 5 dice ) Rie didn't like being beaten though!
We plan to move on tomorrow.









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