Saturday, November 17, 2012
Winter Layup
Restless 2 is now ashore, as the harbour is liable to freeze to 30cm thick ice. The engine has been drained, after running antifreeze through it, similarly the toilet system has had antifreeze put in and the water tank and pump have been drained. We have to cope with the possibility of -20 deg C here. I also remove the engine water pump and remove the impeller for the winter. Leon helped with lifting the heavy tarpaulin cover on, so she is nice and snug for the winter
Sunday, July 15, 2012
Ängeviken 15th July
Yesterday, we sailed northwards from Dönsö, with the intention of finding a safe place to ride out the gale forecast for the next 3 days. After rounding the western tip of Marstand island, we caught 3 small mackerel in the open area before the rocky south western tip of Tjorn. A tasty supper!
We thought we could find shelter in the bay inside of Ingegärdsholmen and Sandhomen, but the buoys were taken and the bay was full of eelgrass so anchoring doubtful in the forecast gale. We looked at mooring to a rock, but the water was too shallow for us.
The navigation is interesting around here, not much room for error.
Some of the passages are rather narrow, and you certainly have to respect the buoys.
I have never sailed so close to rocks before! Having decided that the Sandholmen anchorage was not for us on this occasion, we continued to Skärhamn, where we have been before and where we had arranged to meet Dorthe and Brian on Wednesday. But as we approached, we saw a "harbour full" sign. We thought we'd look in to see if anyone had left, but the place was full of wooden boats! We'd hit a wooden boat festival, and not a free mooring in sight. We considered anchoring in Sunna holme, a little further north, but that is open to the south and south west! So we sailed through Kyrkesund (where we fouled our prop not so long ago), and found a little harbour called Ängevikens Marina. It's just a little place, and guests normally moor outside the breakwater. The harbourmaster was very friendly, and suggested a mooring inside the harbour in view of the impending gale. This we readily accepted.
We have really found a marvellous place here, well protected from the gale blowing outside. We are surrounded by cliffs all around us.
We went for a walk on the cliffs overlooking the marina today, and looked out to sea where the seas were breaking over the rocks. Surprisingly, some brave souls were still sailing!
We asked the harbourmaster where the nearest campsite was, for Dorthe and Brian to camp with the boys next week. He suggested they could pitch their tent just round the back of the harbour, on a meadow that goes down to the water's edge, and free! He also offered us the loan of his car tomorrow to do some shopping at the nearest "landhandel" some 7 km away.
The proposed camping pitch.
We have to decided to stay here a while - until the end of next week at least. Afterwards we will probably start the homeward journey. I'm sure we'll be back here one day though.
We thought we could find shelter in the bay inside of Ingegärdsholmen and Sandhomen, but the buoys were taken and the bay was full of eelgrass so anchoring doubtful in the forecast gale. We looked at mooring to a rock, but the water was too shallow for us.
The navigation is interesting around here, not much room for error.
We have really found a marvellous place here, well protected from the gale blowing outside. We are surrounded by cliffs all around us.
We went for a walk on the cliffs overlooking the marina today, and looked out to sea where the seas were breaking over the rocks. Surprisingly, some brave souls were still sailing!
We asked the harbourmaster where the nearest campsite was, for Dorthe and Brian to camp with the boys next week. He suggested they could pitch their tent just round the back of the harbour, on a meadow that goes down to the water's edge, and free! He also offered us the loan of his car tomorrow to do some shopping at the nearest "landhandel" some 7 km away.
We have to decided to stay here a while - until the end of next week at least. Afterwards we will probably start the homeward journey. I'm sure we'll be back here one day though.
Thursday, July 12, 2012
Donsö 12th July
We left Læsø yesterday morning at 0815, I can't remember when I have seen such a packed harbour - worse than Skagen. As we came out, we saw some boats at anchor outside because of lack of room! We hoisted the mainsail in the fishing harbour before going out, and rolled out the genoa as soon as we were clear of the moles. There was a good wind from the south and we made good speed up to the end of Englishman's bank ( named after an english vessel that ran aground ). Further round the coast is a reef called Danzigmand, for the same reason.
After clearing the reef, we set course 051 deg for Donsö, in Sweden ( one of the offlying islands outside Gothenburg). The sea was very lumpy, so we rolled and pitched all the way to the outlying skerries.The breaking swell was a good meter high. We arrived at Donsö harbour at 1430 after a distance of about 28 nm.The wind had gone round to southeast during the morning. We were lucky to find an alongside berth in Donsö, it filled up later in the day, with some rafted out. This is a fine sheltered harbour, from all but northern winds.
Today is wet and windy, but may clear up in the afternoon, so we may walk the nature trail then. The forecast for tomorrow is also for very windy and wet too, so we'll stay here until Saturday. We are hearing that they have had heavy flooding inland in the smålands area, following a dam bursting, because of the unusually heavy rain when we were back in Denmark.
After clearing the reef, we set course 051 deg for Donsö, in Sweden ( one of the offlying islands outside Gothenburg). The sea was very lumpy, so we rolled and pitched all the way to the outlying skerries.The breaking swell was a good meter high. We arrived at Donsö harbour at 1430 after a distance of about 28 nm.The wind had gone round to southeast during the morning. We were lucky to find an alongside berth in Donsö, it filled up later in the day, with some rafted out. This is a fine sheltered harbour, from all but northern winds.
Today is wet and windy, but may clear up in the afternoon, so we may walk the nature trail then. The forecast for tomorrow is also for very windy and wet too, so we'll stay here until Saturday. We are hearing that they have had heavy flooding inland in the smålands area, following a dam bursting, because of the unusually heavy rain when we were back in Denmark.
Sunday, July 8, 2012
Læsø 10th July
We left Fiskebäkskil on the 1st of July with the intention of sailing back to Donsø. We are taking a diversion to Skagen and Læsø to meet Laust and Lise Lotte (family). On the way through Kyrkesund, we picked up something in the prop, and despite our efforts with reverse/forward shifts we could not get rid of it. We decided to divert into Skärhamn to sort out the problem. The concentrated presence of jellyfish and the cold water disuaded us from taking a dip to have a look ourselves.
We carried on under greatly reduced speed and finally reached Skärhamn, berthing in almost the same spot as before. We told the harbour captain of our problem, and he said he could arrange for a local diver to take a look. It turned out that the diver was tied up with a job further north, and we finally got one to come late the next day. The kids from the neighbour boats were fascinated with the diver when he arrived and took on his diving gear.
It took him a while to clear the prop of the remains of a large heavy gauge plastic sack which had wound itself around the propeller and shaft.
It cost us 700 Swedish kroner for the diver, but if we had continued, it could have cost us much more in engine repairs later.
The next day, the 3rd July, we set sail for Skagen direct, a distance of about 35 nm, which we covered in about 7 hours. Skagen is at the very northern tip of Denmark. When we arrived, Skagen was filling up fast, mainly with Norwegian boats who come for the cheap(er) booze and sandy beaches. We moored bows to the quay, with stern anchor out, but the next day we got an alongside berth when another boat left. Rie has a friend from schooldays living here, and we were picked up in their Jaguar and given a tour around old Skagen before going to their house for drinks.
While we were away from the boat, the harbour had filled up even further, and we found out that Skagen was gearing up for a music festival at the weekend. We stayed the next day as well, and walked up to Leif and Lilly's with our shopper full of dirty clothes to put in their washing machine.We left Queenie with them while we looked around Skagen museum, which houses many well known paintings by P.S.Kroyer , Anna and Michael Ancher. There just happened to be a special exhibition of Kroyer's works, which we greatly enjoyed. When we got back to Lilly's, the washing was done, and she had hung it up on the line! The day was really warm, and Skagen became more and more crowded, so we decided to sail next day. In the evening our washing was delivered in the Jag, and we had Leif and Lilly on board for coffee...
On the morning of the 5th, we woke up to a puzzle as to how to get out! The raft behind us had grown to 12 boats! Luckily we were 3 boats that wanted to leave.
View from our cockpit of our escape route!
After a lot of pushing and shoving, we all got out and left those behind to fight for our berth. We moored up to the fuel quay, and topped up our 2 diesel jerry cans. Then we set sail for Læsø in about 18 knots of wind, on a close reach. After a few hours though, it died on us and we ended up motorsailing in only 3 knots of wind. We found an alongside berth in a corner of the newly renovated basin in Vesterø harbour. The basin had only reopened that day! We met up with Laust and Lise Lotte soon after arriving, and drove in their car to their hired holiday flat. After a fine evening meal with them, we walked back to the boat.
The next day we spent on our own, but we had been invited to an evening meal with Laust and Lise Lotte. Læsø lobsters were on the menu - a local speciality. These are much smaller than normal lobsters - a bit like scampi. After feasting on these, we walked back to the boat.
We had arranged to meet up again the next day and take a tour of the island, and our first stop was Læsø Salt Syderi. Geologically, Læsø is rather special. The southern part of the island consists of saltings which regularly get flooded by seawater, particularly in the winter period. Below the saltings is a thick layer of clay which prevents the floodwater from seeping through. During the warmer months, the water thus evaporates and the salt concentration increases to some ten times the concentration of the surrounding sea water. This salty water is collected from wells and is taken to the working area, where it is concentrated further in several steps by heating in large pans until the salt crystals are produced.The pans are heated by wood fires, firewood being harvested from the nearby forests on Læsø.
Læsø salt contains many minerals, including iodine (from dead algae) and is widely sought by gourmets. The remaining water is used for treating skin conditions, such as psoriasis. A disused church in Vesterø has been converted to a treatment centre, in collaboration with Læsø Salt.
Læsø still has some farmhouses that are thatched with eel grass ( tanggårde), and our next stop was Læsø's museum farm. This thatch is unique to Læsø and is very long lived - so much so that the technique was almost lost. Recently, however a local thatcher in collaboration with the National Museum have worked out how it was done and have begun to re-thatch some of the farmhouses on the island. It takes about 35 tons of eelgrass to thatch a typical farm, and it lasts at least 100 years.
The eelgrass is harvested while still green, and dried like hay spread out on a field. It is then baled up for transport. The eelgrass is twisted into long skeins before being lifted onto the roof.The interior of the farmhouse and out houses are preserved as they were when last in use, and were very interesting. Danish farms were usually built around a central square courtyard, one wing being the house, and the other three wings being the farm buildings.
Our next stop was another farm, which is now used as an outlet for Læsø wool products. We saw some really fine work here, and bought a few items. We then drove back to the harbour again.
Today has been really warm. We have washed down the cockpit, done the washing in the harbour washing machines, and some more shopping. After lunch we visited the local maritime museum, which although small was very interesting. Being an island community, Læsø has a strong maritime tradition for both shipping and fishing. One Læsø captain made a lot of money after salvageing a ship and his son was one of the founders of the Læsø ferry company. This company still exists, and runs a frequent service to and from Frederikshavn, on the mainland.
The Læsø ferry.
This evening we have had Laust and Lise Lotte on board for an evening meal. The main dish was a locally caught fish (sej) which had been baked in the oven.
The next day (9thJuly) we teased ourselves out from the surrounding boats and set sail for Østerby on the eastern end of Læsø. We had to sail a fair distance northeastwards to clear the outlying reef before heading southeastwards again . The wind was a brisk 18 knots from the south west when we left, but going round to south east as we neared Østerby, forcing us to motor the last mile or so. Østerby harbour was even more crowded than Westersø, and it took a while before we found a gap that we could squeeze into. We moored up outside an older Swedish boat, so they didn't mind Queenie walking across their deck. A neighbour Danish boat offered us some Læsø lobsters, as he had bought too many and had a full fridge. So we had them for our supper - delicious with white bread
A læsø lobster
Unlike normal black lobsers, these are also red before being cooked.
There were an amazing number of Swedes here, Danes being in the minority! In the early evening, the heavens openedwhich sent all the grill mad Swedes diving for cover!
The wind continued to blow, increasing to 25knots in the evening and night, we had to sleep with a closed forehatch as the rain hammered down. Today, the 10th July, it is still blowing hard, but mainly dry. We took the free tourist bus back to Vestersø to have lunch with Laust and Lise Lotte. This proved to be a very popular bus and also allowed dogs.
We carried on under greatly reduced speed and finally reached Skärhamn, berthing in almost the same spot as before. We told the harbour captain of our problem, and he said he could arrange for a local diver to take a look. It turned out that the diver was tied up with a job further north, and we finally got one to come late the next day. The kids from the neighbour boats were fascinated with the diver when he arrived and took on his diving gear.
It took him a while to clear the prop of the remains of a large heavy gauge plastic sack which had wound itself around the propeller and shaft.
It cost us 700 Swedish kroner for the diver, but if we had continued, it could have cost us much more in engine repairs later.
The next day, the 3rd July, we set sail for Skagen direct, a distance of about 35 nm, which we covered in about 7 hours. Skagen is at the very northern tip of Denmark. When we arrived, Skagen was filling up fast, mainly with Norwegian boats who come for the cheap(er) booze and sandy beaches. We moored bows to the quay, with stern anchor out, but the next day we got an alongside berth when another boat left. Rie has a friend from schooldays living here, and we were picked up in their Jaguar and given a tour around old Skagen before going to their house for drinks.
While we were away from the boat, the harbour had filled up even further, and we found out that Skagen was gearing up for a music festival at the weekend. We stayed the next day as well, and walked up to Leif and Lilly's with our shopper full of dirty clothes to put in their washing machine.We left Queenie with them while we looked around Skagen museum, which houses many well known paintings by P.S.Kroyer , Anna and Michael Ancher. There just happened to be a special exhibition of Kroyer's works, which we greatly enjoyed. When we got back to Lilly's, the washing was done, and she had hung it up on the line! The day was really warm, and Skagen became more and more crowded, so we decided to sail next day. In the evening our washing was delivered in the Jag, and we had Leif and Lilly on board for coffee...
On the morning of the 5th, we woke up to a puzzle as to how to get out! The raft behind us had grown to 12 boats! Luckily we were 3 boats that wanted to leave.
After a lot of pushing and shoving, we all got out and left those behind to fight for our berth. We moored up to the fuel quay, and topped up our 2 diesel jerry cans. Then we set sail for Læsø in about 18 knots of wind, on a close reach. After a few hours though, it died on us and we ended up motorsailing in only 3 knots of wind. We found an alongside berth in a corner of the newly renovated basin in Vesterø harbour. The basin had only reopened that day! We met up with Laust and Lise Lotte soon after arriving, and drove in their car to their hired holiday flat. After a fine evening meal with them, we walked back to the boat.
The next day we spent on our own, but we had been invited to an evening meal with Laust and Lise Lotte. Læsø lobsters were on the menu - a local speciality. These are much smaller than normal lobsters - a bit like scampi. After feasting on these, we walked back to the boat.
We had arranged to meet up again the next day and take a tour of the island, and our first stop was Læsø Salt Syderi. Geologically, Læsø is rather special. The southern part of the island consists of saltings which regularly get flooded by seawater, particularly in the winter period. Below the saltings is a thick layer of clay which prevents the floodwater from seeping through. During the warmer months, the water thus evaporates and the salt concentration increases to some ten times the concentration of the surrounding sea water. This salty water is collected from wells and is taken to the working area, where it is concentrated further in several steps by heating in large pans until the salt crystals are produced.The pans are heated by wood fires, firewood being harvested from the nearby forests on Læsø.
Læsø salt contains many minerals, including iodine (from dead algae) and is widely sought by gourmets. The remaining water is used for treating skin conditions, such as psoriasis. A disused church in Vesterø has been converted to a treatment centre, in collaboration with Læsø Salt.
Læsø still has some farmhouses that are thatched with eel grass ( tanggårde), and our next stop was Læsø's museum farm. This thatch is unique to Læsø and is very long lived - so much so that the technique was almost lost. Recently, however a local thatcher in collaboration with the National Museum have worked out how it was done and have begun to re-thatch some of the farmhouses on the island. It takes about 35 tons of eelgrass to thatch a typical farm, and it lasts at least 100 years.
The eelgrass is harvested while still green, and dried like hay spread out on a field. It is then baled up for transport. The eelgrass is twisted into long skeins before being lifted onto the roof.The interior of the farmhouse and out houses are preserved as they were when last in use, and were very interesting. Danish farms were usually built around a central square courtyard, one wing being the house, and the other three wings being the farm buildings.
Our next stop was another farm, which is now used as an outlet for Læsø wool products. We saw some really fine work here, and bought a few items. We then drove back to the harbour again.
Today has been really warm. We have washed down the cockpit, done the washing in the harbour washing machines, and some more shopping. After lunch we visited the local maritime museum, which although small was very interesting. Being an island community, Læsø has a strong maritime tradition for both shipping and fishing. One Læsø captain made a lot of money after salvageing a ship and his son was one of the founders of the Læsø ferry company. This company still exists, and runs a frequent service to and from Frederikshavn, on the mainland.
This evening we have had Laust and Lise Lotte on board for an evening meal. The main dish was a locally caught fish (sej) which had been baked in the oven.
The next day (9thJuly) we teased ourselves out from the surrounding boats and set sail for Østerby on the eastern end of Læsø. We had to sail a fair distance northeastwards to clear the outlying reef before heading southeastwards again . The wind was a brisk 18 knots from the south west when we left, but going round to south east as we neared Østerby, forcing us to motor the last mile or so. Østerby harbour was even more crowded than Westersø, and it took a while before we found a gap that we could squeeze into. We moored up outside an older Swedish boat, so they didn't mind Queenie walking across their deck. A neighbour Danish boat offered us some Læsø lobsters, as he had bought too many and had a full fridge. So we had them for our supper - delicious with white bread
Unlike normal black lobsers, these are also red before being cooked.
There were an amazing number of Swedes here, Danes being in the minority! In the early evening, the heavens openedwhich sent all the grill mad Swedes diving for cover!
The wind continued to blow, increasing to 25knots in the evening and night, we had to sleep with a closed forehatch as the rain hammered down. Today, the 10th July, it is still blowing hard, but mainly dry. We took the free tourist bus back to Vestersø to have lunch with Laust and Lise Lotte. This proved to be a very popular bus and also allowed dogs.
Saturday, June 30, 2012
Fiskebäkskil 30th June
We left Hyppeln on the 26th, and sailed the 9 nm to Marstrand, having kept clear of the well marked isolated rock outside Hyppeln harbour.
We started out under full sail, but as soon as we headed north, the wind was almost on the nose.
So, we wound in the genoa and motorsailed the rest of the way.
On the way, a sailing ship from Liverpool passed the other way.Her name was hidden by an inflateable dinghy.
The way in to Marstrand was interesting, and we could see the huge fortifications overlooking the harbour - Carlsten Festninger. This site was fought over several times during the wars with Sweden. The Danes took it under the leadership of the Norwegian born Tordenskjol, but it was eventually given back to Sweden.
On the way in to Marstrand we were overtaken by a lifeboat, these have a fair turn of speed.
Our main reason for visiting Marstrand was to find a cash machine, but we had to take the little ferry over to Koön to find one outside a supermarket. It is a cable ferry.
This harbour is one of the biggest sailsport centres in Sweden, and many regattas are held here. There are many fashionable shops on the front, and a boatyard on the other side. Marstrand is also home to many shipowners, and many foreign going ships are registered here - not that they ever come here!
The pontoons were rather low, so we deployed our newly aquired bow ladder, this has since been adjusted a little. Later we met many more low floating pontoons. We spent a very uncomfortable night in Marstrand, as the stiff northwester pushed the swell right through the moorings. The pontoons swayed and the Y booms bobbed up and down, so the boat bucked and snatched at the ropes. Marstrand marks the boundary between the Kattegat and the Skaggerak, so from now on the coast is open to the northern north sea.
We atayed just the one night here, then set sail for Skärhamn, which is on the western side of the island of Tjörn. Tjörn is a fairly big island with a bridge connection to the mainland. The route from Marstrand was winding and at times narrow between skerries - some awash. I don't think I would like to navigate these waters without the chartplotter! At least one person would have to concentrate on the navigation.
A view of the outer skerries
A tricky narrow turn
Just before arriving in Skärhamn, we caught a good sized sea trout - the evening's meal.
This area used to be full of fishing boats, after the herring which at one time was abundant. Nowadays, only the fishermen's huts are left and many are coverted for tourist accommodation. The few miles we sailed today were really beautiful, although it demanded full concentration.
A rock monster waiting to catch the unwary.
We liked Skärhamn, it has great charm and gives full protection from the wind in all directions. We arrived early at Skärhamn, so we poked our nose into a little bay called Sunna holme, a beautiful anchorage, provided the wind is not from the southern quarter. We dropped the hook here and had lunch. We also watched carefully how the Swedes moor to the rocks, with a stern anchor out.
I think we are getting a bit old for jumping off the bow onto the rocks with a rope! We found a nice spot in the harbour for the night, right in the middle. We were moored to the staging built around a huge boulder. This little islet housed the harbour office , and was connected to the shore by a short wooden bridge. We were perfectly sheltered behind the rock, even though it blew about 18 kn from the northwest.
sheltered behind a rock
There was a large ICA supermarket a short walk from the harbour, there were also a couple of chandlery shops here, although one of them sold mainly clothing and sports goods. We bought two new lifejackets, a pair of "vanderstav" - nordic walking sticks, and a pair of Ecco walking shoes for Rie.
Even the church had a happy face!
The next morning we set off again to Grundsund. This was a place we had visited by car a couple of years ago, and which led to planning this cruise. The distance was only 17 nm, but we anchored up for lunch in an anchorage south of Gullholmen. We passed through several narrow sounds today, incuding Kyrkesund, which was lined with many homes with their own private landing stages.
The approach to Grundsund was easy, the harbour lies behind a long curved mole. We moored alongside a Norwegian boat, and went for a walk through the little alleyways, characteristic of this place. We found a reasonable supermarket here too.
While in Grundsund, we contacted Thomas and Britt, whom we had met at my cousin's in Wales earlier this year. It turned out that their house was near to Fiskebäkskil harbour, so we made that our next destination though it was only 4.5 nm away. This is also a nice harbour to be in.
approaching the harbour in Fiskebäkskil
They came down to see us, and we went with them in the car to their house for lunch. Their house was built in a beautiful location overlooking Gullmarn fjord. The wind piped up to near gale during the day, with leaves and small branches getting blown off the trees, so we were glad Restless was tucked up in a safe harbour. We had a fair amount of rain in the afternoon and evening too. The outlook for the next few days was also windy, from the south. As that is the way we want to go next, so we decided to have another day in Fiskebäkskil.
We started out under full sail, but as soon as we headed north, the wind was almost on the nose.
So, we wound in the genoa and motorsailed the rest of the way.
On the way, a sailing ship from Liverpool passed the other way.Her name was hidden by an inflateable dinghy.
The way in to Marstrand was interesting, and we could see the huge fortifications overlooking the harbour - Carlsten Festninger. This site was fought over several times during the wars with Sweden. The Danes took it under the leadership of the Norwegian born Tordenskjol, but it was eventually given back to Sweden.
On the way in to Marstrand we were overtaken by a lifeboat, these have a fair turn of speed.
Our main reason for visiting Marstrand was to find a cash machine, but we had to take the little ferry over to Koön to find one outside a supermarket. It is a cable ferry.
This harbour is one of the biggest sailsport centres in Sweden, and many regattas are held here. There are many fashionable shops on the front, and a boatyard on the other side. Marstrand is also home to many shipowners, and many foreign going ships are registered here - not that they ever come here!
We atayed just the one night here, then set sail for Skärhamn, which is on the western side of the island of Tjörn. Tjörn is a fairly big island with a bridge connection to the mainland. The route from Marstrand was winding and at times narrow between skerries - some awash. I don't think I would like to navigate these waters without the chartplotter! At least one person would have to concentrate on the navigation.
Just before arriving in Skärhamn, we caught a good sized sea trout - the evening's meal.
This area used to be full of fishing boats, after the herring which at one time was abundant. Nowadays, only the fishermen's huts are left and many are coverted for tourist accommodation. The few miles we sailed today were really beautiful, although it demanded full concentration.
A rock monster waiting to catch the unwary.
We liked Skärhamn, it has great charm and gives full protection from the wind in all directions. We arrived early at Skärhamn, so we poked our nose into a little bay called Sunna holme, a beautiful anchorage, provided the wind is not from the southern quarter. We dropped the hook here and had lunch. We also watched carefully how the Swedes moor to the rocks, with a stern anchor out.
I think we are getting a bit old for jumping off the bow onto the rocks with a rope! We found a nice spot in the harbour for the night, right in the middle. We were moored to the staging built around a huge boulder. This little islet housed the harbour office , and was connected to the shore by a short wooden bridge. We were perfectly sheltered behind the rock, even though it blew about 18 kn from the northwest.
There was a large ICA supermarket a short walk from the harbour, there were also a couple of chandlery shops here, although one of them sold mainly clothing and sports goods. We bought two new lifejackets, a pair of "vanderstav" - nordic walking sticks, and a pair of Ecco walking shoes for Rie.
The next morning we set off again to Grundsund. This was a place we had visited by car a couple of years ago, and which led to planning this cruise. The distance was only 17 nm, but we anchored up for lunch in an anchorage south of Gullholmen. We passed through several narrow sounds today, incuding Kyrkesund, which was lined with many homes with their own private landing stages.
The approach to Grundsund was easy, the harbour lies behind a long curved mole. We moored alongside a Norwegian boat, and went for a walk through the little alleyways, characteristic of this place. We found a reasonable supermarket here too.
While in Grundsund, we contacted Thomas and Britt, whom we had met at my cousin's in Wales earlier this year. It turned out that their house was near to Fiskebäkskil harbour, so we made that our next destination though it was only 4.5 nm away. This is also a nice harbour to be in.
They came down to see us, and we went with them in the car to their house for lunch. Their house was built in a beautiful location overlooking Gullmarn fjord. The wind piped up to near gale during the day, with leaves and small branches getting blown off the trees, so we were glad Restless was tucked up in a safe harbour. We had a fair amount of rain in the afternoon and evening too. The outlook for the next few days was also windy, from the south. As that is the way we want to go next, so we decided to have another day in Fiskebäkskil.
Monday, June 25, 2012
Hyppeln 25th June
The weather on the 23rd was still wet and windy on Björkö, so we stayed another day. The day before, we had forgotten that the forehatch was open wide when it started to rain, so the bedding was rather damp. It was time for changing the sheet and covers etc. anyway so we used the morning to wash and dry it all in the harbour's washing machine. We couldn't get the washing machine to start and ended up with the port captain coming down to sort out the problem - which turned out to be that we should have turned on the water! Oops! But he was very good about it, despite us having got him out of bed early on a Saturday morning.
In the afternoon we managed to get out for a walk, and we climbed up the cliff walk overlooking the harbour. There were some fairly recently built houses up there.
Overlooking Björkö harbour
Björkö harbour
On Monday the weather was a bit better in the morning, at least it was dryish. We decided to sail over to the island of Hyppeln for a change of scenery - only 2.3 nm way! And different it is too! The approach to Hyppeln is strewn with submerged and semisubmerged rocks and calls for careful navigation.There is only one village here - the harbour. It used to be a fishing community, but there are only a couple of commercial boats left now. Many of the houses are now used for holiday purposes but there are frequent ferry services to a couple of other islands and thence further to the mainland. Rie was definitely not impressed with the local shop though - high prices and doubtful quality.
Hyppeln is much higher with rocky fells. We moored up bows to again, with fixed anchor rope, luckily there was someone on the quay to help us in the strong crosswind. We followed a walking trail in the afternoon, the best we have seen yet. The path follows the western shore and then doubles back over the top of the island.
A ferry approaches Hyppeln
Not far from the harbour there was a sandy beach, and Queenie could not resist a dip!
The western side is quite green, with wild rose bushes and low growing juniper and honeysuckle. The path curved around the northern end of the island and we could see over to Rörö harbour, not far away.
Suddenly the scenery changed as we headed towards the middle of the island. We were now walking through a valley of boulders. The path was still easy to walk though, as it was even and dressed with stone chippings. Queenie loved exploring all the nooks and crannies. At one point she found the discarded skin of a snake!
As we dropped down toward the southern side, the scene changed again as we came down to the shore.
As we rounded the southern tip, the shoreline was strewn with smaller stones, which reminded me of the Chesil bank to the west of Portland, England
Eventually the stones petered out, and we came to a meadow area, still strewn with rocks but in between was a rich variety of flowers. Later we found a small field with black sheep sheltering from the wind in a makeshift shelter. We were now back among houses, and it is amazing the lengths some people go to in individualising their terraces!
When we arrived back at the harbour, it was almost deserted of visiting craft. This was the last day of the Swedish midsummer holiday weekend, so most of the boats had sailed back to Gothenberg.
It is now mid afternoon on the 25th, and it has not stopped raining yet today. We now have a German Najad 360 as neighbour ( they crossed from Læsø, Denmark yesterday ). We are considering donning our wet weather suits and going for a walk. Fortunately the weather man (Norwegian Met Office) is promising warm sunny weather the next three days, so we plan to sail to Marstrand tomorrow.
In the afternoon we managed to get out for a walk, and we climbed up the cliff walk overlooking the harbour. There were some fairly recently built houses up there.
Overlooking Björkö harbour
Björkö harbour
On Monday the weather was a bit better in the morning, at least it was dryish. We decided to sail over to the island of Hyppeln for a change of scenery - only 2.3 nm way! And different it is too! The approach to Hyppeln is strewn with submerged and semisubmerged rocks and calls for careful navigation.There is only one village here - the harbour. It used to be a fishing community, but there are only a couple of commercial boats left now. Many of the houses are now used for holiday purposes but there are frequent ferry services to a couple of other islands and thence further to the mainland. Rie was definitely not impressed with the local shop though - high prices and doubtful quality.
Hyppeln is much higher with rocky fells. We moored up bows to again, with fixed anchor rope, luckily there was someone on the quay to help us in the strong crosswind. We followed a walking trail in the afternoon, the best we have seen yet. The path follows the western shore and then doubles back over the top of the island.
Not far from the harbour there was a sandy beach, and Queenie could not resist a dip!
The western side is quite green, with wild rose bushes and low growing juniper and honeysuckle. The path curved around the northern end of the island and we could see over to Rörö harbour, not far away.
Suddenly the scenery changed as we headed towards the middle of the island. We were now walking through a valley of boulders. The path was still easy to walk though, as it was even and dressed with stone chippings. Queenie loved exploring all the nooks and crannies. At one point she found the discarded skin of a snake!
As we dropped down toward the southern side, the scene changed again as we came down to the shore.
As we rounded the southern tip, the shoreline was strewn with smaller stones, which reminded me of the Chesil bank to the west of Portland, England
Eventually the stones petered out, and we came to a meadow area, still strewn with rocks but in between was a rich variety of flowers. Later we found a small field with black sheep sheltering from the wind in a makeshift shelter. We were now back among houses, and it is amazing the lengths some people go to in individualising their terraces!
When we arrived back at the harbour, it was almost deserted of visiting craft. This was the last day of the Swedish midsummer holiday weekend, so most of the boats had sailed back to Gothenberg.
It is now mid afternoon on the 25th, and it has not stopped raining yet today. We now have a German Najad 360 as neighbour ( they crossed from Læsø, Denmark yesterday ). We are considering donning our wet weather suits and going for a walk. Fortunately the weather man (Norwegian Met Office) is promising warm sunny weather the next three days, so we plan to sail to Marstrand tomorrow.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)